Cà del Vént, home of the wind, is the name of the winery and an apt description of it. Just North of Brescia, in the hills of Campian di Cellatica, a sunny southern exposition warms six hectares of vineyards, which are then cooled by the wind that’s always blowing here. An altitude of 300-400 meters and mainly chalky soils chisel the fruit. In the last few years, as the wines have become more refined and acid-driven, the Franciacorta consortium has starting rejecting them. Well, for Franciacorta lovers, maybe that would be a problem. For us, it’s encouraging.
I recently asked Antonio Tornincasa about this years harvest in 2016, to see how it is going. He started recounting a day by day playbook of the weather from June 2009. Ask about soil, and dig in for a good listen, Antonio is just as obsessive terroirista as he is a naturalista. He vinifies 13 parcel separately, and makes the final blend at the end of winter. Pas Operé refers to the use of the same wine (instead of sugar) for secondary fermentation; there are no other additives whatsoever. These are not cheap, but I truly don’t know of any sparkling wines that are more stunning and pure than these in all of Italy.