Fiore Cecere and Carmine Iannaccone are two local childhood friends whose paths came together again in 2012. Well-dressed Campanian men that they are, they are bringing a sartorial care and precision to one and a half hectares of Greco in their native Santa Paolina. The winery, Le Ormere (ORM-a-ray), is local dialect for the centenarian field elm trees that look over the vineyard. Many producers blend Greco from different sub-zones around Tufo; Le Ormere is one of just a few wineries that is a making a single sub-zone wine, in the grand cru of Santa Paolina.*
Greco as a variety is kinda the Amy Winehouse of the area, characterful but also full of problems: late-ripening, low production, and susceptible to “grey rot, oidium, and peronospera.” (D’Agata) And, it’s always playing second fiddle to the ever-popular Fiano. If Fiano is all about poised and sprightly acidity, often needing a few years of bottle age to open up a bit, Greco instead is gregarious as soon as it’s put in bottle. It has a good dollop of fruit wrapped around gritty tannins, a spunky high acidity, and a smoky-flinty mineral element.
Stylish and clean naturalista would describe Le Ormere’s approach: organic farming and all work done by hand in the vineyard. In the cellar, indigenous fermentations and élevage in stainless steel, and low sulphur (<40 mg/L). This is an exciting super-small producer of Greco that we’re happy to have in the portfolio.
* Greco has eight growing areas. Ian d’Agata homes in on the most interesting in his Native Wine Grapes of Italy: “There are two grand crus from Greco, Santa Paolina and Tufo, and one premier cru, Montefusco.”