“Southern Italy begins at Arce”, Marco Marrocco told us when we arrived for our first visit. Marco’s vineyards and cantina lie just outside the striking hill town of Arce in southern Lazio, an area that’s much closer to Campania than to Rome and that was once part of the Kingdom of Naples. Here Marco is hellbent on resurrecting and bringing back to prominence the indigenous varieties of Arce — Lecinaro, Maturano Nero, Maturano Bianco, Capolongo, Pampanaro — from biodynamically farmed vineyards and natural work in the cellar. Marco describes his project as producing wines that are “austere and authentic”, like the inhabitants of these rugged hills and valleys. Production from the current five hectares is tiny. These wines have changed our perception of the picture and potential of Lazio making nuanced fine wines.