Kerin O’keefe on Colombera & Garella in Alto Piemonte

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Colombera & Garella 2013 Lessona; $35, 96 points. This stunning red is all about finesse and light. It opens with lovely scents of violet, rose, perfumed berry and balsamic aromas while the radiant, almost ethereal palate delivers crunchy red cherry, strawberry, white pepper and mineral intensity. It’s impeccably balanced, with bright acidity and firm but elegant tannins. While it’s so tempting now, hold for even more complexity. Drink 2018–2033. Porto Vino Italiano. Editors’ Choice.

Colombera & Garella 2013 Bramaterra; $30, 93 points. Aromas of underbrush, rose petal, flint and dark spice waft out of the glass. The structured, elegant palate offers red cherry, raspberry, clove and star anise flavors set against fresh acidity and a firm backbone of refined tannins. Give this time to let the nervous energy calm down and you’ll be rewarded with even more complexity. Drink 2020–2035. Porto Vino Italiano. Editors’ Choice.