Stefano Vegis is a traditional Gattinara-garagiste*, with rows of vines in multiple vineyards, including 0.6 hectares in Gattinara’s historically most famous cru called ‘Osso,’ or ‘Bone.’** His part of ‘Osso’ is locally called ‘Osso del Sasso,’ or ‘Bone of Rock,’ on account of a huge porphyritic-granitic rock in the middle of the vineyard. Osso fruit is known to give nervous and vertical wines, and Vegis’ wines echo that. They also have that alluring crepuscular, lighter than air, quality that Nebbiolo can have. All of which is pretty amazing, since his first bottled vintage was 2013. We’re curious to see what the follwing vintages will bring from Stefano. 60 cases imported a year.
(A note about farming: Stefano is moving away from the conventional farming which is the norm in Gattinara. He uses only fungicides or bordeaux mixture when necessary in humid years, so no herbicides or pesticides. We applaud his direction toward more natural wines in a area difficult to do that, and we hope to update again soon).
* Gattinara-Garagiste producers make up the minority in Gattinara. In 2002 Gattinara had 96 hectares; the count from 2016 was 117 hectares. Approximately 101 of those 117 acres are owned by the three main wineries: Travaglini 59 ha, Nervi 28 ha, Antoniolo 14 ha.
**Vineyard holdings: Osso del Sasso 0.6 ha; Lurghe 1 ha; San Francesco 0.3 Ha; Uccineglio 0.4 Ha, Borelle 0.5 Ha. Total of 2.7 ha.