Meg Houston Maker on Terroir wines of Mutiliana

Artful Wine: A Field Report From Emilia-Romagna

Meg Houston Maker on terroir wines of Mutiliana:

“Winemaker Giorgio Melandri is a wine journalist from Emilia Romagna, hence deeply familiar with this territory. He sources Sangiovese from three different Apennine valleys near Modigliana, ferments fruit from the sites separately using only wild yeasts, then ages the lots in concrete vats to avoid oak influence. His 2016 Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana Ibbola, grown at the highest elevation, is a cooling breath of juniper, pine, and balsamic. Acerreta, from the lowest site, is fleshier, warm and friendly. Tramazzo, from the middle zone, is perhaps the most intellectual. Mutiliana’s U.S. importer is Porto Vino.

I met Giorgio Melandri at a small dinner gathering on my last night in Faenza. It was a capstone experience. We ate prosciutto, vegetable torta, rabbit ragù, roasted potatoes, and silken braised cabbage. These were winter foods, comforting, sourced from a northern region. Along with them we drank his three beautiful, precise Romagna Sangiovese. Here were wines that were vini di territorio, wines of terroir; not merely local, but deeply artful, too”.